Mastering the Art of the French Cheese Plate: A Guide to Elegance and Flavor

Exploring the Rich World of French Cheese: How to Create the Perfect Cheese Plate

When it comes to cheese, the United States has long had a love affair with incorporating it as an ingredient—found oozing from the edges of a pizza, stirring comfort into mac and cheese, or nestling warmly into a sandwich or burrito. However, when considering cheese alone as its own course, the French have perfected this practice. In France, cheese is celebrated in its own right, often enjoyed unaccompanied by the elaborate spreads of crackers and accompaniments we see elsewhere.

The Simple Elegance of French Cheese

In a conversation with John Montez, a certified cheese professional and manager at Murray's Cheese in New York, he illuminates the cultural differences in how we enjoy cheese. Montez notes, "In the US, we're still getting over cheese being an ingredient," pointing out that it's unusual for many Americans to appreciate cheese solo. Yet, taking cheese alone is an experience worth cultivating.

Choosing the Right Cheeses

For those new to composing a cheese plate, Montez advises starting with three to five cheeses—often opting for odd numbers for visual appeal—and incorporating a mix of textures and flavors. A quintessential French cheese plate might include a hard cheese like Comté, a soft cheese such as Brie, and a blue like Roquefort.

Montez also shares his love for doing vertical tastings—sampling multiple iterations of a single type of cheese, such as various blue cheeses from different regions, which can unveil subtle variations for those with an adventurous palate. However, for more casual gatherings, an array of milk types featuring goat, sheep, and cow's milk can offer diversity.

Seasonal Considerations and Storage

While cheese may not immediately spring to mind when thinking about seasonal food, Montez highlights its importance in selecting cheese at peak times. A spring or summer cheese might be a fresh goat cheese, whereas in the colder months, something like a dense Brie could stand out.

One lesson Montez imparts is the importance of temperature—with refrigeration harming cheese’s potential for flavor, he encourages buying cheese the day you intend to eat it to preserve its integrity and to revel in its intended taste.

Discovering French Hard and Blue Cheeses

Among hard cheeses, Comté reigns supreme, appreciated for its rich tradition and varied flavors based on aging from 12 months to several years. Similarly, French blue cheeses like Roquefort are hailed for their classic taste, while others like Bleu D'Auvergne offer versatile use.

The Creamy and the Funky: French Soft Cheeses

For soft cheeses, one might choose a mild chèvre in springtime, or indulge in a buttery Brie Fermier or Camembert with rich vegetal flavors developed through specialized cultures. For those who crave a funkier profile, washed rind cheeses like Époisses offer pungency and complexity.

French Cheeses to Seek in France

If lucky enough to visit France, Montez recommends trying raw milk cheeses aged less than 60 days, unavailable in the US due to regulations. Camembert de Normandie and Abbaye de Belloc are legendary offerings embodying the terroir and tradition of their regions.

Pairing Drinks and Accompaniments

Montez suggests pairing French wine with its corresponding regional cheese for an exemplary experience. While certain classics like Sancerre with goat cheeses are nearly universally acclaimed, Montez encourages experimentation—sometimes discovering unexpected pairings like Scotch and fresh goat cheese.

For accompaniments, bypass the elaborate for simplicity—a traditional baguette or a hint of honey elevates but never overshadows the star attraction: the cheese itself. The key is allowing the cheese to be celebrated for its own merit, much like the cultural approach embraced by the French.

Conclusion

From selecting the ideal mix of cheeses to understanding the nuances of seasonal flavors, assembling a French cheese plate is both art and science. Montez’s insights provide cheese enthusiasts the foundation to not just serve cheese, but to appreciate it fully, celebrating its diverse palate of flavors and textures, much like the French do. So, next time you reach for cheese, consider trying it unabashedly served on its own—you might just discover your new favorite way to enjoy cheese.

References:

Serious Eats. (2023). How to build a perfect French cheese plate. Retrieved from Serious Eats


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